Flights of fancy and earthy food.
The Place: Malloy Cafe at Gabreski Airport in Westhampton.
The Dish: Crab cakes with rice and chipolte sauce, $9. Ordering crab cakes can be tricky, so says my mother, who is a connoisseur and a diligent crab cake orderer. She believes there is an iron-clad quality to price ratio, which is 1:1. You get what you pay for. Thus, there are no good, inexpensive crab cakes. She might have to revise this theory, because at Malloy the crab cake appetizer serves up two, decent-sized cakes with minimal bread crumbs and a sprinkling of red and green peppers. They're slightly spicy with zing added by the chipolte sauce. The rice turns the appetizer into a stomach-filling dish no doubt appreciated by the Coast Guard pilots at the next table.
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The Bonus: The cafe sits on the airport's runway, the largest on the East End and thus able to land some spectacular private jets. The day I had lunch, Steven Spielberg's 737 was dropping off his kids, who were on their way to the beach. Or so the story went. Oh, and on the way home, stop by , which has its cheesecake bakery on airport grounds.
